On the rise, the new Eldorado climbing hall for city dwellers and entrepreneurs

In just a few years, climbing has become trendy. Climbing, which appeared on the Olympic program in Tokyo and became popular on social networks, has seen the number of licensees double in 15 years to 160,000 in France. A number “not representative of the size of the practice in France†according to Ghislain Brillet, president of the Union of Climbing Rooms (UDSE) and director of the Roc en Stock franchise.

In Lille, Strasbourg, Caen, Nantes, Marseille, theaters are springing up like mushrooms and claiming 10 million visitors a year, outside the federation. In addition, the number of living spaces, supported by communities, is increasing by 4% per year. Illustration of this enthusiasm: the largest private climbing gym in Europe opens Thursday 21 April in Aubervilliers. 200 lines of rope, 170 linear meters in block, 5,000 m² climbable surface: a real climbing temple.

†We don’t chase records, but the building lent itself to it. We will be able to welcome the public without people piling up on each other”François Petit, founder of the Climb’Up network, which opens this hall, explains François Petit, and three-time climbing world champion. Here you climb to a maximum height of five meters, on blocks with protruding slopes, dotted with colored grips. No harness, rope or technical knowledge is required. Just slippers and a little chalk.

If bouldering is preferred in private gyms, compared to difficult climbing (ropes) or fast climbing, it is because it requires less equipment, less technique and most importantly less space. But in Aubervilliers, the gigantic nature of the site allows you to give it a try. Huge arches of resin rise up to 15 meters high. †Seven route planners took turns for three months to come up with these routes, 10 others took care of the bouldering and 10 trainees helped us†† explains Ryan Henderson, who is active in the room as opener. seven colors of circuits, for equal difficulty, are set up †from child level to the French team†† Something to stand out, build loyalty, but also diversify the public by making climbing accessible to people over 40 or people with disabilities.

French franchises have become the world leaders in indoor climbing† With 27 climbing rooms, Climb up holds the world theater record for a franchise. Arkoseanother brand† generates the largest turnover (19 million in 2019 with 20 rooms and 300 employees). A total of 170 cinemas have opened their doors in France and another twenty are to follow this year.

Franchise networks and private rooms have bet on a “high-end” concept. High value-added services (sauna, yoga, gym, meeting room, restaurant and bar) are next to power outlets in neat urban lofts. The prices, a access in free access on average 15 euros per session and about fifty euros per month, attract† †85% of customers become loyal and will return to the room or subscribe the following year†† welcomes Ghislain Brillet. What to answer to an urban clientele, looking for much more than a simple wall.

In these rooms, men and women, mostly between the ages of 18 and 35, move flexibly between the different spaces.† †Our rooms are not intended for traditional climbers. It’s more of a new form of fitness with more challenge†† in abundance Ghislain Brillet, the president of the UDSE. We have doctors, executives, professors, more of a CSP+ environment, who see it as a place of conviviality and sharing a healthy and dynamic lifestyle. We come to meet people after work”he adds† One between itself claimed by the private rooms. Climbing District, another brand, sums up the spirit of “bouldering” like this: “Good climbing, a social club and coworking†

Since the opening of the first indoor bouldering area in France in 1995, in Aix-en-Provence, the number of exercise areas in urban areas has multiplied. †We are concentrated in the 20 largest cities in France with major investments”, explains Steve Guillou of Arkose. The furnishing of a classic room costs between 1.2 and two million euros. The industry is booming:Big cities still have great potential. We aim for 200 rooms in 2022 and 500 in 2025counts Ghislain Brillet.

In a country of mountains, the culture of mountaineering and climbing is not alien to the general public, which may explain this strong support. The French model is now exported to Europe: the Altissimo franchise is located in Lisbon, Arkose in Brussels. †The idea was to develop a practice in regions that had no climbing, that had no relief. The French model is praised for its quality services†† explains Ghislain Brillet.

The French Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (FFME) also wants to benefit from the enthusiasm: “Our clubs are full and refuse members, establishes Alain Carrère, its chairman. There are 1,000 clubs that have access to public climbing gyms in communities, but there is a lack of infrastructure in all regions. Today we have three very large cinema projects carried out by local authorities in Troyes, Chamonix and Le Bourget.†

“Historically there are a lot of rope walls in communities. We’ve been building walls in gyms with a lot of height for a long time and it’s progressing at 4% a year”

Alain Carrère, President of the FFME

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The federation has also started operating indoor rooms. The rise of the public in the sector is not without tensions with private cinemas.

Relations have since calmed down and dialogue has become institutionalized, as long as everyone stays in their field. †We don’t have the same goals. We focus on leisure, well-being, we are not clubs. But the FFME should not compete with us, each in its own field,” cut the UDSE.

The two target groups do not or rarely meet. †At the moment there is no bridge between the two target groups, private customers do not have a permit”, confirms Alain Carrère, the president of the federation. If he hopes time will help create a synergy between private rooms and public spaces, there still seems to be a lack of catches to hear the Mawem brothers. Backed by an Olympic adventure in Tokyo, which was very well attended last summer, they have launched their private room in Colmar nine months ago. Mickaël Mawem, wanted to associate some members of his chamber with the federation. †They sent us a huge file and we didn’t have time for that†† he explains.

However, the top athlete is convinced that cooperation can be fruitful. †In the context of the development of climbing, it is interesting for the federation that there is a maximum number of subscribers. (…) It could bring thousands more licensees. So more weight for the federation and more investment in climbing.† With or without harness, climbing in France is still trying to find its balance.